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BSA’s Pottery Merit Badge

Boy Scouts of America (aka BSA or Scouting) has a pottery merit badge! I love teaching art, but I know not everyone has access to a local teacher for a merit badge counselor. I also know that professional potters might not have all the detailed information to teach this merit badge, since it delves into the history of pottery as well as the practical making of pottery. So, I’m laying it all out here for you!

If you’re a Scout looking for the answers, here they are- although you’ll need to transform them into your own words.

If you’re a merit badge counselor looking for some help- here it is!

If you aren’t in Scouts and just want to learn more about pottery, this will be helpful to you as well!

For all my Scout-related resources, visit my Scouting page. Also, I have another post that might interest you: Intro to Clay

The Pottery Merit Badge

1.  Explain to your counselor the precautions that must be followed for the safe use and operation of a potter’s tools, equipment, and other materials.

1. General Safety in the Pottery Studio:

  • Wear Appropriate Clothing: Always wear an apron or old clothes because clay and glazes can stain fabric. Closed-toe shoes should be worn to protect your feet from dropped tools, clay, or shards of broken pottery.
  • Use Protective Gear: When working with clay or glazes, especially when sanding or dealing with dried clay, wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling fine particles. Gloves may be needed when handling certain chemicals used in glazes.

2. Safety Around the Potter’s Wheel:

  • Proper Seating: Ensure the stool or chair you use is stable and at the correct height to avoid strain while working on the wheel.
  • Keep Hands and Hair Clear: Keep your hands wet while working with the spinning wheel to prevent friction burns, and tie back long hair to avoid it getting caught in the wheel.
  • Avoid Loose Clothing: Make sure long sleeves, jewelry, or loose clothing are not in the way, as they could get tangled in the spinning wheel.

3. Kiln Safety:

  • Never Touch the Kiln When Hot: Kilns reach extremely high temperatures (around 2,000°F or higher). Always wait until the kiln has fully cooled down before touching it or removing pieces.
  • Ventilation: Ensure the kiln room is well-ventilated. Firing pottery releases fumes, which can be harmful if inhaled over time.
  • Use Heat-Resistant Gloves: When loading and unloading a kiln, wear heat-resistant gloves to protect your hands from heat and sharp edges of pottery.

4. Handling Clay and Glazes Safely:

  • Keep Work Areas Clean: Wet clay can make floors slippery, and dried clay can create harmful dust if inhaled. Clean up spills immediately and regularly mop the floor to keep clay dust down.
  • Use Non-Toxic Glazes: Always check the labels of glazes to ensure they are non-toxic, especially if the pottery will be used for food or drink. Some glazes contain harmful chemicals like lead, which should be avoided.
  • Proper Disposal of Waste: Do not wash clay or glaze waste directly down the drain. Use a dedicated clay trap or let solids settle in a container to prevent clogging pipes.

5. Tool Safety:

  • Sharp Tools: Many pottery tools, such as trimming tools, needle tools, and knives, are sharp. Always handle them carefully and keep them out of the reach of children.
  • Carving and Trimming: When using tools to carve or trim, work away from your body to avoid accidental injury.

2. Do the following:

2a. Explain the properties and ingredients of a good clay body for the following:

2a(1) Making sculpture

  • Properties: Sculpting clay needs to be strong and plastic (easy to mold and shape without cracking). It should also have a high grog content (gritty sand or small, fired clay particles) for better structure, reducing shrinkage, and helping it hold larger, detailed forms without collapsing.
  • Ingredients:
    • Clay (Ball clay or Kaolin): Provides plasticity and structure.
    • Grog: Adds strength, reduces cracking, and improves drying.
    • Water: Essential for workability, helps in shaping and smoothing.

2a(2) Throwing on the Wheel:

  • Properties: Wheel-throwing clay should be highly plastic and smooth, allowing easy shaping on the wheel. It should hold its shape well during the spinning process and have low grog (grit) content to maintain smoothness.
  • Ingredients:
    • Clay (Stoneware or Porcelain): Smooth texture, great plasticity, and flexibility.
    • Sand/Grog: Minimal amounts, as too much can hinder the smoothness needed for wheel-throwing.
    • Water: Necessary for lubrication and forming on the wheel.

2(b) Tell how three different kinds of potter’s wheels work.

  1. Electric Wheel (>$500):
    • Powered by a motor.
    • Variable speed controlled by a foot pedal.
    • Ideal for consistent, adjustable spinning.
  2. Kick Wheel (>$300):
    • Manual wheel powered by foot using a kick mechanism or treadle (although then it’s usually called a Treadle Wheel).
    • Requires more physical effort to keep the wheel spinning.
    • Common in traditional pottery studios.
  3. Hand-Operated Wheel (>$200):
    • Smaller, portable, operated by manually turning a crank or handwheel, leaving only one hand to work the clay unless you have a friend to help keep the wheel moving). Often the potter alternates: he spins the wheel, works, and spins the wheel again, etc.
    • Limited for small-scale projects or light-duty use.

3. Make two drawings of pottery forms, each on an 81⁄2-by- 11-inch sheet of paper. One must be a historical pottery style. The other must be of your own design.

You’re on your own for your individual design- have fun! But let me tell you about some historical forms of pottery. Choose one to try to replicate. If you can’t think of anything to do for your own individual design, try merging several historic designs.

All these images are Public Domain, from the Met

1. Chinese Pottery:  

One of the most influential pottery traditions, Chinese pottery dates back to at least 6000 BCE. Known for innovation and technical excellence, China developed true porcelain during the Tang and Song dynasties. Chinese kilns became world-renowned for their ability to produce fine, translucent ceramics, and blue and white porcelain from the Ming Dynasty became a major global export. Styles like Tang Dynasty sancai ware (multicolored ceramics) and Qing Dynasty famille rose porcelain (delicate pink and floral designs) also showcase the diversity of Chinese pottery. Techniques such as underglazing and overglazing allowed for intricate, colorful designs that greatly influenced ceramics around the world.

2. Ancient Greek Pottery:  

Greek pottery, dating back to the Minoan civilization of the 3rd millennium BCE, is well-known for its elegant shapes and decorative scenes. Greek potters perfected both the black-figure and red-figure techniques, depicting mythology, daily life, and athletic competitions. Important forms include the amphora (used for storage), krater (mixing bowl), and kylix (drinking cup). Greek pottery was not only functional but also highly artistic, contributing greatly to our understanding of ancient Greek culture.

3. Islamic Pottery:  

Islamic pottery is famous for its intricate decoration, with an emphasis on geometric and floral motifs due to religious restrictions on depicting human and animal forms. Persian lusterware, a type of pottery that used metallic glazes to create iridescent surfaces, became highly prized across the Islamic world. Iznik pottery from Turkey, with its striking blue and white designs, and Moroccan zellij tilework, which adorns many mosques and palaces, are also significant contributions from the Islamic pottery tradition.

4. Japanese Pottery:  

Japanese pottery, with a tradition spanning back to Jomon pottery (14,000–300 BCE), is one of the oldest in the world. The Jomon people created hand-formed vessels decorated with cord-marked patterns. Later, during the Edo period, Raku ware emerged as a distinctive form, known for its simple, hand-molded shapes and association with the Japanese tea ceremony. Raku firing involves low temperatures and quick cooling, producing irregular surfaces that are highly valued in Japanese aesthetics.

5. Native American Pottery:  

Native American pottery varies by region and tribe, reflecting diverse cultural traditions. Pueblo pottery from the Southwest is well-known for its coil-building technique and intricate geometric designs, often painted with natural pigments. Navajo blackware features striking black-on-black patterns, while Cherokee pottery often incorporates deeply incised patterns. Pottery served both functional and ceremonial purposes, and many Native American potters, like Maria Martinez, gained international recognition for reviving traditional methods and designs.

6. African Pottery:  

African pottery, often made using simple hand-forming techniques such as coiling or pinching, reflects the rich diversity of the continent. Much of the pottery is utilitarian, used for cooking, storage, and rituals. Zulu pottery from South Africa and Ndebele beadwork pottery from Zimbabwe are known for their bold, geometric designs. Pottery in Africa is often fired in open pits, giving it a unique texture and color. Tuareg pottery from North Africa is another notable tradition, emphasizing intricate designs and practical forms.

7. European Pottery:  

European pottery has a long and varied history, with styles that evolved in response to artistic movements and global influences. Italian maiolica is a brightly colored, tin-glazed pottery that often features intricate, hand-painted designs. Dutch Delftware, inspired by Chinese blue and white porcelain, became highly popular in the Netherlands and across Europe. In England, Josiah Wedgwood revolutionized pottery in the 18th century by mass-producing high-quality ceramics like creamware and jasperware, which were favored by European royalty.

8. Pre-Columbian Pottery (Mesoamerica):  

The pottery of the Maya, Aztecs, and other Mesoamerican civilizations played both functional and ceremonial roles. These cultures created polychrome pottery—vessels painted with vibrant scenes depicting gods, rulers, and mythological creatures. The pottery often served as offerings in religious ceremonies and was placed in tombs to accompany the dead in the afterlife.


4. Explain the meaning of the following pottery terms: bat, wedging, throwing, leather hard, bone dry, greenware, bisque, terra-cotta, grog, slip, score, earthenware, stoneware, porcelain, pyrometric cone, and glaze.

Try to put these in your own words!

  • Bat: A flat disk, usually made of wood, plaster, or plastic, that is placed on the wheel or work surface to support clay as it’s thrown or hand-built. Bats make it easier to move pieces without handling them directly.
  • Wedging: The process of kneading clay to remove air bubbles and ensure uniform texture and moisture. This helps prevent cracking and warping during drying and firing.
  • Throwing: The act of shaping clay on a potter’s wheel. The term “throwing” refers to the process of forming the clay as it spins on the wheel using hand techniques. (You “throw a pot on a wheel.”)
  • Leather Hard: A stage of drying where the clay is still slightly flexible but firm enough to handle. At this stage, clay can be carved, joined, or trimmed without distorting the shape.
  • Bone Dry: The final drying stage before firing, where all moisture has evaporated from the clay. Bone-dry clay is extremely fragile and ready for the kiln.
  • Greenware: Unfired pottery that is completely dry but not yet bisque-fired. This includes pottery at the leather-hard or bone-dry stages.
  • Bisque: Pottery that has been fired once but not glazed. The bisque firing strengthens the clay and prepares it for glazing.
  • Terra-Cotta: A type of low-fire, porous clay that has a reddish-brown color due to its iron content. It is often used for flower pots, sculptures, and architectural elements.
  • Grog: Fired and ground-up clay particles added to clay bodies to improve strength, reduce shrinkage, and help with drying. Grog helps prevent cracking during firing.
  • Slip: A liquid mixture of clay and water used for attaching pieces of clay together, decorating pottery, or casting forms in molds. Slip can also be colored with oxides for decorative purposes.
  • Score: A technique where the surface of the clay is scratched or roughened before joining it to another piece. This ensures a stronger bond when using slip.
  • Earthenware: A low-fire clay that is porous and not as durable as stoneware or porcelain. It is usually glazed to hold liquids and fired at lower temperatures (around 1,830°F to 2,010°F).
  • Stoneware: A high-fire, durable clay that is non-porous and often used for functional ware like dishes and mugs. Fired at temperatures around 2,100°F to 2,400°F, stoneware is stronger than earthenware.
  • Porcelain: A high-fire, white, fine-grained clay known for its strength, translucency, and smooth surface. It is often used for delicate, high-end ceramics and fired at temperatures above 2,300°F.
  • Pyrometric Cone: A small, cone-shaped piece of ceramic material that melts at a specific temperature. Potters use cones to measure the heat inside a kiln and determine when firing is complete.
  • Glaze: A glass-like coating applied to pottery that adds color, texture, and makes the piece waterproof. Glazes are applied before the final firing and fuse to the pottery in the kiln.

5. Do the following. Each piece is to be painted, glazed, or otherwise decorated by you:

5a. Make a slab pot, a coil pot, and a pinch pot.

You can complete this requirement with any kind of clay, but I suggest air-dry clay because it’s cheap and doesn’t require a kiln. Crayola’s air-dry clay works great and it’s available in white or terra cotta. You can buy it on Amazon or a craft store like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby. Another nice feature of air-dry clay is that you can typically complete the project all in one sitting, while traditional clay will probably need to dry slowly in a bag over several days. You can paint it when it’s completely dry (3-4 days later) and that will seal it (otherwise it may reabsorb moisture and become pliable again).

Sculpting

Materials Needed: Air dry clay, rolling pin, knife, ruler, slip (see below), sponge, two slats (or wooden sticks) of equal thickness, paint (acrylic, tempura, spray paint, paint pens… I’d avoid watercolor paints)

Slip- This is just a mix of water and clay. It’s basically dirty water, but it acts like glue! Just add a little pinch of clay to a little (around 2-3 oz) bowl of water. Let it sit a bit until the water seems like the consistency of paint or runny yogurt.

1. Slab Pot

  • Prepare the Clay: Knead the air-dry clay until it’s soft and pliable.
  • Set Up Slats: Place the two slats parallel to each other on your work surface. The thickness of the slats will determine the thickness of your slab. Be sure your slats are close enough together that your rolling pin can rest on both at the same time.
  • Roll Out the Rectangle: Use a rolling pin to flatten the clay between the slats into a long rectangle, about ¼ inch thick. Ensure it’s long enough to wrap around the circular base.
  • Roll Out the Circle: Use the rolling pin to flatten another piece of clay into a circle for the base of the pot. You can use a round object (like a lid) to trace the circle shape.
  • Dry the Slabs Slightly: Let both the rectangle and circle sit for a little while until they’re no longer sticky but still pliable. This helps prevent the walls from buckling when assembled.
  • Cut the Pieces: Trim the rectangle and circle as needed to ensure they fit together nicely. The long rectangle will stand on edge and wrap around the circle base (or set just on top of the base).
  • Join the Pieces: Use a scoring tool (like a needle tool or fork) to score the edges of the rectangle where it will attach to the circular base. Also, score the edge of the circle. Apply slip (water) to the scored edges and press them together firmly.
  • Shape the Pot: Gently shape the rectangle around the circle to form the walls of the pot. Smooth the seams with a sponge or your fingers to ensure they are well connected.
  • Dry: Allow the pot to air dry according to the clay’s instructions.
  • Paint: Using any kind of paint you have on hand, paint your clay.

I like this video demonstration of how to make a super small circular pot with air-dry clay.

I like this other video demonstration for making a square pot, although she uses several tools that are not strictly required. She also uses non-square sides, so it’s a little more complicated. I do like how she uses a coil to strengthen the joint at the base. Around 14:00 she shows how to make a circular slab pot too, which is much easier! Hopefully some day I’ll make my own video!

2. Coil Pot

  • Prepare the Clay: Knead the clay until it’s soft.
  • Make Coils: Roll the clay into long, snake-like coils, about the thickness of your finger.
  • Build the Base: Start with a flat piece of clay for the bottom, then place a coil around the edge.
  • Stack the Coils: Add more coils on top of the first, scoring and adding slip between each layer to stick them together.
  • Shape and Smooth: As you stack coils, shape the pot by gently pressing inward or outward. Use a sponge to smooth the surface.
  • Dry: Allow the pot to air dry according to the clay’s instructions.
  • Paint: Using any kind of paint you have on hand, paint your clay.

I like this video demonstration (although the intro is annoyingly long and loud!)

3. Pinch Pot

  • Prepare the Clay: Knead the clay until it’s soft and pliable.
  • Make a Ball: Roll a piece of clay into a ball about the size of your palm.
  • Create the Opening: Use your thumb to press into the center of the ball, creating a deep well.
  • Pinch the Walls: Pinch the walls of the pot gently with your thumb and fingers to shape it. Keep the thickness even.
  • Smooth and Refine: Use a sponge and water to smooth the outside and inside of the pot.
  • Dry: Let it air dry according to the clay’s instructions.
  • Paint: Using any kind of paint you have on hand, paint your clay.

I like this video Demonstration for pinch pot but keep in mind that yours doesn’t have to be that big.

5b. Make a human or animal figurine or decorative sculpture.

Have fun! This is super open-ended. I suggest you keep these tips in mind:

  • If you’re new to sculpting, begin with simpler shapes before attempting more complex designs.
  • Look at pictures of animals or people to help guide your proportions and details.
  • Plan on making something that is heavier on the bottom so it doesn’t become top-heavy.
  • Start with the largest parts first (like the torso or body of an animal).
  • Roll out larger pieces of clay and shape them into the desired forms.
  • Add smaller pieces for limbs, heads, and other details.
  • To join pieces: Score and apply slip between any pieces that will be joined to ensure they stick together well. Smooth seams with your fingers or a sponge.

5c. Throw a functional form on a potter’s wheel.

For this, I suggest you look around for a local Clay Co-op, high school class, or community college class. 5c and 5d are generally the hardest part of this merit badge because so few kids have access to a wheel and kiln.

5d. Help to fire a kiln.

As with 5c, I suggest you look around for a local Clay Co-op, high school class, or community college class.


6. Explain the scope of the ceramic industry in the United States.
Tell some things made other than craft pottery.

The ceramic industry in the United States is much bigger than just making pottery for art or decoration. While craft pottery is a fun and visible part of ceramics, there are many other important products made from ceramics. Ceramics are materials made from clay that are hardened by heat. They are known for being strong, heat-resistant, and good insulators.

Craft Pottery:
This is the handmade stuff you see in stores, like beautiful bowls, mugs, and sculptures. Artists create these items in small studios. They are often sold at local markets, galleries, or online.

Industrial Ceramics:
In factories, ceramics are used to make lots of useful things, including:

  • Refractories: Special ceramics that can handle very high temperatures. They line furnaces (like big ovens) and kilns where metals and glass are made.
  • Electrical Ceramics: These ceramics help with electricity. They are used in devices like computers and phones as insulators (keeping electricity from escaping) and in parts like capacitors and resistors.

Medical Ceramics:
Ceramics are also important in medicine because they are strong and safe to use in the body. They are used to make things like dental crowns (caps for teeth) and joint replacements (like hip or knee surgeries). These materials.

Advanced Ceramics:
Some ceramics are used in high-tech areas, like space travel. For example, the tiles on space shuttles help protect them from extreme heat when they come back to Earth.

Household and Commercial Products:
Many everyday items are made from ceramics, even if we don’t always notice. These include ceramic tiles for floors and walls, toilets and sinks, and even some kitchen tools.


7. With your parent’s permission and your counselor’s approval, do ONE of the following:

7a. Visit the kiln yard at a local college or other craft school. Learn how the different kinds of kilns work, including low-fire electric, gas or propane high-fire, wood or salt/soda, and raku.

7b. Visit a museum, art exhibit, art gallery, artists’ co-op, or artist’s studio that features pottery. After your visit, share with your counselor what you have learned.

Have fun- I have some helpful tips for visiting a museum here.

7c. Using resources from the library, magazines, the Internet (with your parent’s permission), and other outlets, learn about the historical and cultural importance of pottery. Share what you discover with your counselor.

If you choose to do #3, here are my tips for you:

A Few Suggested Websites:
  1. National Park Service (NPS) Pottery: Search for “pottery history” in the site search bar for articles about Native American pottery and other cultural contexts.
  2. Smithsonian Education: Look for resources on pottery and ceramics in their collections. Search for “ceramics” or “pottery” in the search bar.
  3. PBS LearningMedia: This site offers videos and articles on various cultural aspects of pottery. Search for “pottery” or “ceramics” for relevant materials.
  4. Khan Academy: Search for “art history pottery” to find lessons on the significance of pottery in different cultures.
  5. Ceramics Monthly: This magazine covers various aspects of pottery, including historical insights and artist profiles. Look for articles in their archives.
A few Suggested Phrases to Google:
  • “History of pottery”
  • “Cultural significance of ceramics”
  • “Pottery in ancient cultures”
  • “Native American Pottery History”
  • “Ceramics in different cultures”
Tips for Researching:
  • Use keywords: Focus on specific terms related to pottery, like “ancient pottery,” “pottery techniques,” or “pottery traditions around the world.”
  • Check multiple sources: Look for information in different places (websites, books, videos) to get a well-rounded view.
  • Take notes: Write down interesting facts, names, and terms you come across. This will help you remember what you want to share.
  • Ask for help: If you’re stuck or need guidance, don’t hesitate to ask a parent, librarian, or teacher for suggestions on where to look.
  • Look for visuals: Pictures of pottery can help you understand its cultural context better. Many sites have images that show pottery in use or in historical settings.

8. Find out about career opportunities in pottery. Pick one and find out the education, training, and experience required for this profession. Discuss this with your counselor, and explain why this profession might interest you.

Here are a few career opportunities in the field of pottery and ceramics that you might want to explore deeper:

  1. Ceramic Artist: Create functional or decorative pottery pieces, often selling them at galleries or craft fairs.
    • Education: Bachelor’s in Fine Arts (optional).
    • Training/Experience: Hands-on practice, workshops, portfolio development.
  2. Pottery Instructor: Teach pottery techniques and skills at community centers, art schools, or colleges.
    • Education: Bachelor’s in Art Education or Fine Arts (preferred).
    • Training/Experience: Teaching experience and strong pottery skills; certification may be required.
  3. Ceramic Engineer: Work in industries that require ceramic materials, focusing on the development and manufacturing of high-tech ceramics.
    • Education: Bachelor’s in Ceramic Engineering or Materials Science.
    • Training/Experience: Internships in manufacturing or research labs; advanced degrees may be beneficial.
  4. Art Conservator: Specializes in the preservation and restoration of ceramic artifacts, often working in museums.
    • Education: Master’s in Art Conservation or a related field.
    • Training/Experience: Internship or apprenticeship; knowledge of art history.
  5. Production Potter: Work in a pottery studio or factory, producing items like dinnerware, tiles, or decorative pieces using molds or wheel-throwing techniques.
    • Education: High school diploma; Fine Arts degree helpful.
    • Training/Experience: On-the-job training, familiarity with production techniques.
  6. Ceramics Researcher: Conduct research on new materials and techniques in ceramics, often in academic or industrial settings.
    • Education: Bachelor’s or Master’s in Materials Science or Chemistry.
    • Training/Experience: Research experience, lab work, and publishing findings.
  7. Gallery Manager or Curator: Manage art galleries or exhibitions that focus on pottery and ceramics, promoting artists, and organizing shows.
    • Education: Bachelor’s in Arts Management or Art History.
    • Training/Experience: Experience in gallery work or internships; organizational skills.
  8. Art Therapist: Use pottery and ceramics as a form of therapy, helping individuals express themselves creatively and improve their mental health.
    • Education: Master’s in Art Therapy or Counseling.
    • Training/Experience: Supervised clinical experience; certification or licensure required.

That’s it! I hope you have a lot of fun completing this merit badge!

I am not a professional potter- just an amateur who enjoys the art form. If you notice anything I should add or revise, please let me know.

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